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The snow was falling in Berlin on the morning of January 20, , when a series of black cars swept through the gates of a luxury villa in Wannsee, a suburb southwest of the city. Some 15 senior officials of the Reich had been invited for a special meeting in this relaxed location, as army orderlies served them drinks. In early August, Gerstein traveled with a convoy into a forested region of the former Czechoslovakia to pick up the gas containers from a potash plant, before heading into Poland.

At the next stop, he pretended to inspect the cargo and told the others that one of the containers was leaking. They helped him bury it at the side of the road. The mass-killing at Belzec had already begun, and the plan was to kill every Jew within a few hours of arrival.

A large group of Polish Jews before execution in Belzec, circa Nestled against the side of a wooded slope, the camp at Belzec consisted of SS barracks, a small railway station and a series of compact buildings. It strengthens the lungs—a precaution against disease! As one woman of about 40 came up the steps, she turned to Gerstein and Wirth, and cursed her murderers.

Wirth swung at her with his whip, and she was pushed inside. The death chamber was soon so packed that the SS and their Ukrainian helpers had to use their shoulders to force shut the heavy doors. There were screams, prayers and shouts of anger and hatred, too.

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SS sergeant Lorenz Hackenholt now stepped forward. He was in charge of the truck whose exhausts were fed into the chambers to choke the victims. But its engines failed to start. Wirth shouted and cursed in embarrassment, as inside hundreds suffered unimaginable prolonged agony. Minutes turned into an hour.

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Later, as the others from the train were murdered, Wirth showed Gerstein the piles of valuables stolen from the victims. As he pocketed two gold coins, he told Gerstein that the problem with the engine had not happened before and he asked him not to propose any changes to Berlin. Gerstein lied and told him that the consignment of Zyklon B he had brought appeared to be contaminated and would need to be dumped. In the poor light of the blacked-out train, Gerstein broke down in tears as he described what he had seen. The Swede made a full report to the neutral Swedish government which, afraid of aggravating its relationship with Hitler, shelved it until after the war ended.

Back in his apartment, Gerstein slumped in a chair.

At work, Gerstein was pushed further into the horror, trying where he could to divert or sabotage consignments of gas. In , as Nazi Germany collapsed, Kurt Gerstein seized his opportunity to testify. Abandoning his post in Berlin, he drove west and surrendered to French forces. At first, accepted as a genuine anti-Nazi, he wrote a report on what he had seen at the death camps. But when French army intelligence took him to Paris, they told him that he was being investigated as a war criminal.

Inmates had their own newspaper, and the children put on cute plays. But after the camp passed its inspection, life returned to slave labor and death. Ponder the touching collection of Jewish children's art, also on display in the Pinkas Synagogue in Prague's Jewish Quarter.


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After completing his "Final Solution," Hitler had hoped to build a grand museum of the "decadent" Jewish culture in Prague. Today, the five synagogues of Prague's Jewish Quarter Josefov , containing artifacts the Nazis assembled from that city's once-thriving Jewish community, stand together as a persistently unforgettable memorial. In addition to the synagogues, a joint ticket also covers the Old Jewish Cemetery and the Ceremonial Hall.

All of these sights are scattered over a three-block area between Prague's Old Town and the Vltava River. Possibly the most moving Nazi sight of all is the martyred village of Oradour-sur-Glane, 15 miles northwest of Limoges, in central France. In , the entire town was machine-gunned and burned in by Nazi SS troops.

Seeking revenge for the killing of one of their officers, they left townspeople dead in a blackened crust of a town under a silent blanket of ashes. The poignant ruins of Oradour-sur-Glane — scorched sewing machines, pots, pans, bikes, and cars — have been preserved as an eternal reminder of the reality of war. When you visit, you'll see the simple sign that greets every pilgrim who enters: Souviens-toi Walk down the claustrophobic stairs into a world of concrete, iron bars, water, and sky. Inside the structure, an eternal flame, triangular niches containing soil from various concentration camps, and powerful rdquoes will etch the message into your mind.

Then gaze at the , crystals — one for each French person who perished. Since destruction and death are fascist fortes, only relatively insignificant bits and pieces of Hitler's Germany survive. But as time passes, today's Germans are increasingly aware of the need to remember the horrors that began in their country. While some visitors complain that the Dachau camp memorial is too "prettied-up," it gives a powerful look at how these camps worked.


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  8. Built in , this first Nazi concentration camp offers a compelling voice from our recent, grisly past, warning and pleading "Never Again" — the memorial's theme. On arrival, pick up the mini-guide and check when the next documentary film in English will be shown. The museum, the movie, the chilling camp-inspired art, the reconstructed barracks, the gas chambers, the cremation ovens, and the memorial shrines will chisel into you the hidden meaning of fascism. Hitler got his start — and had his strongest support — in the beer halls of Munich.

    The Munich City Museum traces the origin and development of Nazism. Now that its Wall is history, Berlin is giving the Nazi chapter of its history a little more attention. Berlin has several Nazi-related museums and memorials. The adjacent four small "mountains" are made from the rubble of the bombed-out city.

    The chilling Book Burning Monument commemorates the 20, books that were burned on Berlin's Bebelplatz at the order of the Nazis. Glance into the glass floor in the middle of the square on Unter den Linden to see a huge underground room with empty shelves.

    Hidden in the Enemy's Sight: Resisting the Third Reich from Within

    Berlin's New Synagogue was burned on Kristallnacht in , but has since been restored. The zigzag shape of the zinc-walled building is pierced by voids, symbolic of the irreplaceable cultural loss caused by the Holocaust.

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    In nearby Wannsee near Potsdam , you can tour the house where Hitler's cronies came up with the "Final Solution" of the Holocaust. There was strong resistance to Hitler even in Berlin. In front of the glass-domed Reichstag is a row of slate slabs embedded in the ground, memorializing the 96 politicians who were persecuted and murdered because their politics didn't agree with Chancellor Hitler's. Near the Kulturforum museums is a former military headquarters Benderblock where conspirators plotted an ill-fated attempt to assassinate Hitler — and where they were also shot for the crime.

    It's now the site of the German Resistance Memorial. Berlin's Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe consists of 2, gravestone-like pillars.

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    Completed in , it is the first formal German government-sponsored Holocaust memorial. The pillars are made of hollow concrete, each chemically coated for easy removal of graffiti. The number of pillars, symbolic of nothing, is simply how many fit on the provided land. Is it a labyrinth The meaning is entirely up to the visitor. The memorial's location — where the Berlin Wall once stood — is coincidental.

    It's just a place where lots of people can easily experience it. The bunker of Nazi propagandist Joseph Goebbels was discovered during the work and left buried under the northeast corner of the memorial. Hitler's bunker is just yards away, under a nondescript parking lot. The north wing of the hall houses the Nazi Documentation Center , with a "Fascination and Terror" exhibit that examines the causes and consequences of the Nazi phenomenon. The town of Berchtesgaden, near the Austrian border, is any German's choice for a great mountain hideaway — including Hitler's. Just north of Trier, near the Luxembourg border, in the town of Irrel, is the Westwall Museum , with tourable bunkers that made up part of the Nazis' supposedly impenetrable western fortification closed in winter.